Building a Concrete Stair Pad for a Deck

Creating a stable, long-lasting concrete pad for deck stairs is an essential part of many outdoor projects, especially when building small entry decks, porch steps, or access platforms. Whether you’re planning to build a similar pad or just want to understand the process better, this breakdown gives you full insight into each step, the reasoning behind it, and what you can expect during the project.

1. Understanding the Goal of the Project

The purpose of the concrete pad in the video is to create a solid landing for a set of deck stairs. The deck itself is small, and the stairs need a firm, level, and long-lasting surface to rest on. Instead of placing stairs directly on soil or gravel — which can shift, sink, or rot the wood — a concrete pad offers stability and durability.

Key objectives of the pad:

• Support the stair stringers safely

• Sit flush with ground level to avoid trip hazards

• Align perfectly with the deck edge

• Provide proper height for evenly spaced stair steps

• Allow good drainage by pitching slightly away from the deck

2. Starting With the Stair Stringer Measurement

Before building the form or digging, the first step shown is cutting one stair stringer to determine the exact distance the pad must extend from the deck.

Why this matters

Stairs must land precisely on the pad, so the builder uses the stringer to:

• Measure the length of the stairs

• Mark the front edge where the pad should end

• Position the form correctly during setup

This approach eliminates guesswork and ensures the pad supports the stairs exactly where needed.

3. Choosing the Height of the Pad

The desired stair riser height in the footage is 7.5 inches per step. The pad must sit at the correct elevation so that the bottom step matches this measurement.

Things considered in the video:

• The top step connects to the deck surface

• The bottom step must rest on the pad

• The pad height must align with ground level for safety

• The builder avoids creating a lip or raised edge

This careful planning helps create comfortable stairs and a safe final landing.

4. Building the Concrete Form

The next step is building the rectangular form that will shape the concrete pad.

Materials Used for the Form

• Standard two-by-six boards

• Nails instead of screws

Why Nails Instead of Screws?

The builder highlights a helpful tip:Nails make form removal easier later because screws grip too tightly and require removal one by one. With nails, the form can be loosened and pried out without dismantling it piece by piece.

Once assembled, the wooden form is placed on the ground where the pad will be, but it doesn’t need to be perfectly aligned yet because digging will shift things anyway.

5. Marking the Ground and Preparing to Dig

With the form temporarily in place, the outline is traced onto the soil.This marking shows exactly where to dig.

The digging area is made slightly larger than the form to:

• Allow for adjustments

• Fit gravel under the pad

• Provide room to maneuver the form during leveling

Digging Depth

The builder digs deeper than needed due to tree roots. Normally, digging only to the form depth is ideal. Over-digging introduces loose soil that can settle later. But in this case, roots forced deeper digging and some backfilling.

6. Removing Roots and Preparing the Ground

This part of the process is described as the most difficult, and the video shows heavy root systems from nearby trees and shrubs.

Removing roots is important because they:

• Interfere with pad stability

• Cause uneven settling

• Make it hard for the form to sit flat

The digging continues until all major roots are cleared, and the space matches the needed depth.

7. Placing the Form Into the Ground

Once the hole is dug:

• The form is dropped into place

• The stair stringer is used again to check alignment

• The form is squared and leveled

• The pitch is adjusted slightly downward away from the deck

Proper form placement is one of the most crucial parts of the project.

How Squaring Is Done

Squareness is checked by measuring both diagonals of the form:

• If both diagonal measurements match, the form is square.

• If not, slight adjustments are made by shifting corners.

Leveling Techniques Used

The builder:

• Adds dirt under low spots

• Removes dirt under high spots

• Uses the ground itself to hold the form rather than stakes

• Inserts stones where needed for stability

8. Filling the Base With Soil and Gravel

After the form is set and aligned, the inside area is filled with:

1. A thin layer of compacted soil

2. About half an inch of gravel

The soil helps support the form.The gravel improves drainage and helps prevent cracking.

Even though the soil was disturbed during root removal, the builder compacts it as much as possible to reduce future settling.

9. Adding Reinforcement Mesh

A metal grid is cut to size and placed so it will sit within the middle of the concrete pour.

This mesh:

• Helps prevent cracking

• Adds structural stability

• Reinforces the entire pad

It is more rigid than simple wire mesh but thinner than rebar — a good compromise for a small pad.

10. Mixing and Pouring the Concrete

The concrete is mixed bag by bag in small batches.

Key Notes from the Video:

• Early mixes were too dry

• Consistency matters for strength and finish

• The goal is to eliminate air pockets

The builder uses:

• A shovel

• A hoe

• A methodical approach to fill every corner

The mesh is added once the pour is about halfway complete.

Working Alone vs. With Help

The builder mentions that mixing and pouring alone makes it harder to maintain a consistent flow.Ideally, one person mixes while the other pours and levels.

11. Screeding and Leveling the Concrete

Screeding is performed using a straight board.The board is dragged across the top of the form while moving it side to side.This step ensures the concrete surface becomes level with the sides of the form.

Between screeding passes, a trowel is used to:

• Push concrete into low areas

• Smooth edges

• Remove voids

Removing Air Bubbles

Tapping the outside of the form with a hammer helps air pockets rise and dissipate.

12. Allowing Initial Set Before Finishing

After the concrete is screeded flat:

• Excess moisture rises

• The top firms up slightly

• The concrete begins the initial cure

This quiet waiting period prepares the surface for final finishing.

13. Creating the Surface Texture

Two finishing options are discussed:1. Smooth finish (best done with a float)2. Broom finish (creates traction). The builder applies a broom finish fairly early, which creates a rougher texture.

Why a rough finish?

In snowy climates, rough texture:

• Reduces slipping

• Gives shoes more grip

• Helps water drain faster

The earlier the broom strokes are applied, the rougher the final finish becomes.

14. Keeping the Concrete Moist During Cure

To prevent cracking, the concrete is kept damp during the early curing phase.

The builder uses:

• A garden hose with a fine mist setting

• Light sprays every 20 minutes for a couple of hours

Alternatively:

• Plastic sheeting can be applied

• Spraying can be less frequent if covered

Moist curing helps slow water evaporation, leading to a stronger pad.

15. Removing the Form After 24 Hours

Once the concrete has hardened for a full day, the form can be removed.

The builder:

• Loosens soil around the edges

• Uses a hammer and pry bar

• Carefully pushes the form outward

• Lifts the pieces without damaging the pad

This is where using nails instead of screws becomes beneficial — the form comes apart easily without taking it apart board by board.

16. Cleaning Up and Final Ground Leveling

After the form is off:

• Gaps around the pad are filled with soil

• Topsoil is added for a clean finish

• The ground is leveled to match the surrounding area

Eventually, grass or pathways can be added, but the priority at this stage is creating a flush, safe surface.

Final Result

The finished pad:

• Sits level with the ground

• Holds a rough broom texture

• Slopes slightly away from the deck

• Provides a strong landing for the stair stringers

It is clean, functional, and built with attention to alignment and safety.

Conclusion

From measuring and formwork to pouring, leveling, and finishing, each step shows how careful planning and simple techniques contribute to a strong final result. This project highlights that even though pouring concrete may seem intimidating, understanding the process visually and conceptually makes it far more approachable. With clear steps, patience, and basic tools, many homeowners can better understand how concrete pads are created and what goes into building structures like deck stairs.