DIY Laundry-Mudroom Renovation: A Simple Step-by-Step Guide for Homeowners

Table of Contents

1. Project Overview

2. Planning & Permits

3. Space Planning and Layout (Laundry + Mudroom)

4. Picking a Washer/Dryer (Ventless Combo Basics)

5. Demolition (Demo)

6. Rough-In: Plumbing

7. Rough-In: Electrical & Lighting Plan

8. Doors: Exterior Door Conversion + Pocket Door

9. Subfloor Prep & Floor Tile (Herringbone Setup)

10. Wall Systems: Drywall + Vertical Tongue-and-Groove Paneling

11. Prime, Caulk, and Paint (One-Color “Color-Drench” Finish)

12. Laundry Nook Build: Cleats, Butcher Block Counter, Shelf, Curtain

13. Storage Walls: Peg Rails, Vertical Hooks, and Door Stops

14. Litter Cabinet Bench (Hidden Pet Zone)

15. Finishing Touches & Styling That Work Hard

16. Common Mistakes to Avoid

17. Budgeting Snapshot (Where to Spend / Where to Save)

18. Maintenance & Care Checklist

19. Quick Troubleshooting (After Move-In)

20. Tools & Materials Master List

21. Project Timeline (Sample Week-by)

22. FAQs

Project Overview

Goal: Turn a tight laundry area and awkward entry into a clean, efficient mudroom-laundry with better flow, storage, and light.

Core moves:

• Shift laundry to the opposite wall to free floor space.

• Replace a rear window with an exterior door to create a real “family entrance.”

• Add a pocket door to save swing space.

• Install herringbone tile for durability and visual interest.

• Wrap walls in vertical tongue-and-groove (T&G) for texture and a classic look.

• Color-drench the room (walls, trim, ceiling one color) for a unified feel.

• Create a laundry worktop + shelf and a curtained bay to hide baskets.

• Add peg rails and clever storage (including a hidden litter cabinet bench).

• Use a ventless combo washer-dryer to maximize placement options.

Result: One flexible zone that handles laundry, daily entry, shoes, coats, bags, and pet needs—without looking cluttered.

Planning & Permits

Before you start:

• Check permits. Door opening changes, electrical circuits, and plumbing moves may require permits/inspections.

• Confirm structure. If you widen openings or lower headers, consult a professional for load paths.

• Order long-lead items early. Doors, tile, electrical fixtures, and laundry appliances can have lead times.

Measure twice, design once:

• Create a scaled floor plan with appliance dimensions, door swings, and clearances.

• Map studs, plumbing stacks, and electrical paths early.

• Decide lighting locations and switching logic before drywall.

Space Planning and Layout (Laundry + Mudroom)

Targets for smooth use:

• Clear main path from exterior door to interior door(s).

• Keep washer access clear of door swings and shelves.

• Plan zones:

  • Drop zone by the door (hooks, bench or cabinet).

  • Laundry zone (machine, counter for sorting/folding).

  • Hidden storage (curtained bay or cabinets).

  • Pet zone (enclosed litter bench—vented if possible).

Standard clearances (good homeowner rules of thumb):

• Front of washer/dryer to opposite obstacle: 36–42 in clear if possible.

• Pocket door opening width: 30–36 in is comfortable for laundry baskets.

• Hall/aisle width in mudroom: 42 in or more feels open.

Picking a Washer/Dryer (Ventless Combo Basics)

A ventless combo (washer + electric dryer in one unit) saves space and increases layout freedom.

Why homeowners pick it:

• No vent duct needed; place near a water supply & 120V outlet.

• One drum = no transfer between washer and dryer cycles.

• AI/auto dosing and auto cycle selection are common on modern units.

• Good fit for closets, nooks, and tight mudrooms.

Plan for:

• Water supply, drain standpipe, and a standard 120V circuit per manufacturer specs.

• Final counter height above the unit (leave service access).

Demolition (Demo)

Safety first:

• Turn off power at the panel and water at main shutoff or fixture valves.

• Wear gloves, respirator, and eye protection.

• Use a stud finder and inspection camera to avoid cutting utilities.

Demo scope to consider:

• Remove old doors, closets, drywall where needed, and any non-load-bearing walls you plan to reconfigure.

• Keep and cap safe any existing plumbing you may reuse later (e.g., future sink for a butler’s pantry).

Surprises happen. If you find old wiring, damaged framing, or pests, correct it now while walls are open.

Rough-In: Plumbing

For a ventless combo:

• Supply lines: Hot and cold with quarter-turn isolation valves.

• Backflow/check valves where required.

• Drain standpipe to code height and trap.

• Keep lines neat and clipped; plan for a possible second unit by stubbing an extra supply/drain (future-proofing).

Tip: If space is tight, consider space-saving traps and tidy, parallel runs for a clean look and easier service.

Rough-In: Electrical & Lighting Plan

Circuits & power:

• A ventless combo typically uses a 120V dedicated circuit (confirm the manufacturer’s specification).

• Add multiple outlets along the counter and in each nook (code-compliant spacing and GFCI/AFCI where required).

Lighting layout that reads “professional”:

• Task pendants or surface mounts centered over the laundry counter.

• Two recessed can lights aligned with the main aisle (avoid off-center cans at the door).

• One supplemental light in any dark pocket or niche.

• Dimmers for task lights; separate switching for zones so you don’t have to light the entire room when doing a quick load.

Color temperature:

• 2700–3000K for warmth; 3000–3500K for a touch brighter. Keep all fixtures similar for consistent color.

Doors: Exterior Door Conversion + Pocket Door

Window-to-Door conversion (exterior):

• Confirm header sizing, water management (flashing, sill pan), and rough opening for the new door.

• Order prehung with the correct swing; check hinge finish to match interior hardware or plan to refinish.

• Weather-strip and insulate the jamb; seal the threshold.

Pocket door (interior):

• Use a kit with frame + track sized to the door.

• Ensure plumb, level, square or it will bind.

• Keep the cavity free of wires/plumbing.

• Pocket doors are ideal in tight laundries and mudrooms where swing space is premium.

Subfloor Prep & Floor Tile (Herringbone Setup)

Why tile: Water-resistant, durable, easy to clean. Herringbone adds movement and hides small irregularities.

Subfloor prep:

• Patch and flatten; use a self-leveling underlayment if needed.

• Install uncoupling membrane (optional but helpful) to reduce cracking.

Layout tips for herringbone:

• Snap a centerline in the direction of travel (from entry into the room).

• Dry-lay several rows to verify pattern direction and proportions.

• Choose a vent cover designed to be tiled around for a cleaner look.

Grout joints & color:

• 1/8-in spacers give a classic brick look.

• Pick a grout tone that complements the tile (mid-tone hides dirt best).

• Let set, then grout; protect from traffic during cure.

Wall Systems: Drywall + Vertical Tongue-and-Groove Paneling

Drywall:

• Hang, tape, and sand to a level suitable for paint in non-wet areas.

• Use moisture-resistant board if any splash zones exist.

Vertical T&G paneling:

• If installing vertically, add a continuous plywood backer so every board has something to nail into (studs are 16 in on center; vertical boards need more nailing).

• Scribe first and last boards to keep reveals even.

• Caulk corner seams and nail holes; sand lightly before paint.

Why vertical? It visually lifts the ceiling and fits cottage/colonial styles.

Prime, Caulk, and Paint (One-Color “Color-Drench” Finish)

Steps:

1. Prime all surfaces, including T&G and trim.

2. Caulk inside corners, trim joints, and panel seams.

3. Sand & dust off.

4. Paint walls, trim, and ceiling the same color in appropriate sheens:

   • Ceiling: Flat

   • Walls/T&G: Eggshell/Satin

   • Trim/Doors: Satin/Semi-gloss

Why one color? It unifies many surfaces and details. It also hides changes in substrate and draws attention to lighting, flooring, and hardware.

Laundry Nook Build: Cleats, Butcher Block Counter, Shelf, Curtain

Countertop support (cleats):

• Find studs. Install 1×4 cleats on the back and both sides at counter height.

• Use screws + construction adhesive. Paint them wall color so they disappear.

Butcher block counter:

• Dry-fit; trim carefully; seal all faces (including underside and cut edges).

• Slide onto cleats; fasten from below with short screws in slotted holes to allow wood movement.

Open shelf with brackets:

• A single 12-in-deep shelf above the machine often works best.

• Use strong metal or wood brackets; anchor to studs.

• Paint shelf and brackets wall color for a built-in look.

Curtained bay (to hide baskets or shoes):

• Mount a small brass or steel rod under the counter.

• Hang pre-pleated drapery panels trimmed to exact height.

• Choose a fabric that wipes clean and hides daily clutter.

Storage Walls: Peg Rails, Vertical Hooks, and Door Stops

Peg rails / hook boards:

• Run 1×4 or 1×6 rails at two heights (low for kids/bags, higher for coats).

• Screw into studs; pre-drill for wood pegs or use metal hooks.

• Add a door stop so hooks don’t clash with the door when open.

Why it works: Slim vertical storage maximizes a long wall without crowding the aisle.

Litter Cabinet Bench (Hidden Pet Zone)

Concept: A ready-made litter cabinet that looks like a bench, holds 1–2 boxes, and keeps mess out of sight.

Key details:

• Look for rear venting and easy front access for scooping.

• Swap knobs to match your room’s finish (e.g., unlacquered brass).

• Top it with a DIY bench cushion (foam + batting + durable fabric).

• Keep the area washable and protected; monitor for odors and add charcoal filters if needed.

Finishing Touches & Styling That Work Hard

• Large mirror near the door for last-look checks and to bounce light.

• Runners that fit the aisle; choose low-profile, washable materials.

• Baskets on shelves for hats, gloves, pet items.

• Umbrella stand, small broom/dustpan for quick cleanups.

• Labeling for shared household use (bins, hooks, shelves).

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Forgetting service clearances around the washer/dryer.

2. Insufficient lighting or poor switch locations.

3. No plywood backing behind vertical T&G—leads to loose boards.

4. Skipping self-leveling under tile—causes lippage and cracked grout.

5. Unsealed butcher block edges—absorbs moisture and stains.

6. Door hinge/finish mismatch—plan finishes before ordering.

7. Not planning venting (bath fan/range hood elsewhere) if combining spaces—humidity must be controlled.

Budgeting Snapshot (Where to Spend / Where to Save)

Spend on:

• Exterior door & pocket door kit (fit, weather-tightness, smooth slide).

• Floor tile + proper prep (flatness and durability).

• Lighting (layered, dimmable, reliable drivers).

• Plumbing valves and fittings (leak-free, future-proofed).

Save on:

• Open shelf + painted brackets instead of full cabinet uppers.

• Curtained bay instead of a custom cabinet.

• Ready-made litter bench you can customize.

• Paint instead of multiple materials (color-drench unifies affordably).

Maintenance & Care Checklist

Monthly

• Wipe machines and counter edges; check for leaks at valves.

• Clean lint filters and any secondary filters per manufacturer.

Quarterly

• Wash curtain/fabric panels; vacuum peg rails/hooks.

• Inspect caulk lines; touch up paint.

Annually

• Reseal butcher block (if oil or hardwax finish).

• Deep clean tile and re-seal grout if needed (use a grout sealer compatible with your grout type).

• Lubricate pocket door track (if manufacturer allows).

Quick Troubleshooting (After Move-In)

• Washer shakes: Re-level the feet; confirm counter isn’t touching the lid or sides.

• Slow drain/gurgle: Check standpipe height and trap; clear lint; if persistent, call a plumber.

• Tile hairline cracks: Inspect subfloor movement; add thresholds or soft joints on long runs if needed.

• Door rubs: Adjust pocket door hangers and strikes; check jamb plumb.

Tools & Materials Master List

Core tools

• Tape, level, square, stud finder

• Multi-tool/oscillating saw, circular saw, jigsaw

• Drill/driver set, impact driver

• Pry bars, hammers, nail set

• PPE (gloves, eye/ear protection, N95 or respirator)

• Wet saw for tile, trowels, spacers, grout float

• Caulk gun, paint roller/brushes

• Pocket hole jig (optional for shelf work)

Key materials

• Pocket door kit + slab, exterior prehung door + hardware

• Tile, thinset, grout, membrane, leveler

• T&G paneling + plywood backing

• Drywall, joint compound, screws

• Construction adhesive, wood screws, finish nails

• 1×4 cleats, butcher block countertop, shelf and brackets

• Curtain rod + panels, foam, batting, durable fabric (or tablecloth)

• Peg rails/hooks, door stop

• Paint (ceiling flat; walls eggshell/satin; trim satin/semi-gloss) + primer

• Plumbing valves, traps, hose bibs as required

• Electrical boxes, wire, dimmers, GFCI/AFCI where code requires

• Sealants: caulk, butcher block oil/hardwax, grout sealer

Project Timeline

Week 1: Planning & Ordering

• Final design, measurements, order doors/fixtures/tile/appliance.

Week 2: Demo & Rough-Ins

• Demo closets/walls; rough plumbing and electrical; inspections.

Week 3: Doors & Walls

• Install exterior door + pocket door frame; drywall; T&G backing; hang T&G.

Week 4: Flooring & Paint

• Level subfloor, install tile (herringbone), grout; prime, caulk, paint (color-drench).

Week 5: Build-Out

• Cleats + butcher block; shelf + brackets; curtain bay; peg rails; door stop; litter bench; mirror.

• Install washer/dryer; test water/power; final touch-ups.

Scale up/down based on crew size, shipping, and inspections.

FAQs

Q1: Do I need a vent for a ventless combo?

No. It typically needs a water supply, drain, and 120V power. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Q2: Can I place a ventless combo in a closet?

Yes, with adequate airflow clearances and access for service. Check the manual.

Q3: How high should the laundry counter be?

Common heights are 34–36 in above finished floor. Match adjacent counters if the space is open to a kitchen.

Q4: What grout joint width for a brick-look herringbone?

1/8 in is a popular choice for that classic look; confirm with your tile size.

Q5: Do I need plywood behind vertical paneling?

If your T&G boards run vertical, a continuous nailing surface (plywood) is best. Otherwise sections will have no studs behind them.

Q6: How do I keep the room from feeling dark with a color-drench?

Use layered lighting, keep the floor mid-tone or lighter, and add a large mirror to bounce light.

Q7: Pocket door or regular door?

Use a pocket door wherever swing clearance is tight. It frees floor space and allows full access to the machine and storage.

Final Notes

• Design for behavior, not only looks. If you stage laundry or leave shoes by the door, plan hiding spots (curtain bay, closed bench) so the room stays calm and organized.

• Keep systems serviceable. Leave access to valves, outlets, and tracks.

• Unify finishes. Matching metal tones and a single wall color make mixed elements feel built-in.