DIY Stamped Concrete Fire Pit Patio

A stamped concrete fire pit patio can look like a custom hardscape without the custom price. With careful planning, basic tools, and a few rental items, it’s possible to build a 15-foot round stamped concrete patio for around $600 in materials and rentals, saving thousands compared to hiring out. This blog explains every step in simple, clear language. It follows a four-pour method that splits the circle into manageable wedges, uses flexible plastic form boards for the curve, and finishes the surface with a texture roller and acetone-based stain.

What You’ll Build

• Shape: Circle, 15 ft diameter (radius 7.5 ft)

• Center feature: Pre-built fire pit (already in place)

• Structure: Four equal concrete wedges poured separately

• Depth: Target 2½–3 in of concrete (thin to save bags; adjust for local loads)

• Reinforcement: Fiberglass rebar (≈3/8 in) tied in a ring and spoke pattern

• Finish: Stamped/rolled texture to mimic stone, then stained

• Estimated material cost: ≈$400–$600 depending on bag price, stain, release, and form boards

• Skill level: Intermediate DIY

Materials and Tools

Concrete and reinforcement

• Pre-mixed concrete (60–80 lb bags). Count on ~20 bags per 90° wedge at ~2½–3 in depth. Adjust for thickness.

• Fiberglass rebar (≈3/8 in), ties, and tie wire

• Mold/release agent for stamping and for form boards

Forms and layout

• Flexible plastic form boards (often sold as “bender board” for concrete forms)

• Straight 2×4s for the four wedge dividers (about 64½ in long each pair)

• Stakes or screws for anchoring forms

• Center stake (fiberglass rod or rebar)

• String and tape measure

Finishing and stamping

• Texture roller for concrete (slate/stone pattern)

• Bull float

• Mag float

• Hand trowel(s)

• Concrete edger (optional, but produces a clean outside edge)

Cutting, mixing, and general

• Circular saw or miter saw (for 2×4 prep)

• Drill/driver and screws

• Hand tamper

• Pressure washer or hose with nozzle

• Wheelbarrow, buckets, and cleanup tools

• Concrete mixer options:

  • Mud mixer with hopper extension (fast but optional)

  • Small electric barrel mixer (buy or rent)

  • Wheelbarrow and mixing hoe (lowest cost, most labor)

Coloring

• Acetone-based concrete stain (plus acetone for dilution)

• A solvent-rated sprayer (confirm solvent-proof seals; avoid melting seals)

Layout aids

• Chalk/marking paint (or spray paint)

• String level or long level

• Optional laser (outdoor-visible type; many “daylight visible” lasers are not)

Safety gear

• Gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, dust mask/respirator, knee pads

Planning the Four-Pour Layout

Pouring a 15-foot circle in four wedges has real benefits:

• Keeps each batch small enough to handle with a modest mixer and team

• Reduces cold-joint problems within a wedge

• Lets one section cure while another is stamped

Key layout points:

• Radius = 7.5 ft. Mark the center of the fire pit and set a sturdy center stake. Tie a string to the stake at exactly 7.5 ft to scribe the circle.

• Divide the circle into four equal wedges (90° each). Two 2×4 “sandwiches” create each divider. These dividers slide in and out when the pours are done.

Step 1: Mark the Circle and Quarter Lines

1. Find and fix the center. If a fire pit is already set, mark the exact center. Drive a fiberglass rod or rebar through the center mark.

2. Scribe the circle. Tie a string to the center stake at 7.5 ft. Walk the string around, dragging marking paint to outline the circle.

3. Mark the quarter lines. Snap or paint two lines at 90° to each other across the circle. If a laser is unavailable or hard to see outdoors, use a string level or a long board with a bubble level to square lines by measurement.

Tip: If rain washes the marks, re-scribe from the center. Keep notes on the radius and quarter alignment.

Step 2: Build the Wedge Dividers

Each divider is a pair of 2×4s:

• Cut eight pieces of 2×4 at 64½ inches.

• On four of those, cut a shallow rabbet (a slot) at the ends using a miter saw with a depth stop. These rabbets help the two boards nest and resist concrete bleed.

• Fasten each rabbeted 2×4 to a plain 2×4 as a single unit. Angle screws from the top so the pair pulls out easier after curing.

You’ll end up with four divider assemblies. These set the straight edges of each wedge and help control pour depth.

Step 3: Set Slope and Elevation

A fully level patio can hold water. A slight slope sheds rain and spills.

• Choose a reference point (often the highest edge near the front wedge).

• Set each divider’s top edge so a bubble just touches the line on the level, matched to that reference. This gives a gentle fall outward.

• Use a string level or long straightedge with a level to verify slopes match all around.

Target: A small, consistent slope in the direction you want water to drain. Keep it subtle for comfort and furniture stability.

Step 4: Install the Outer Curve (Flexible Form Boards)

• Use plastic bender board or flexible form boards designed for concrete curves.

• Starting at a wedge divider, bend the form around the circle to the next divider.

• Fasten with stakes on the outside of the curve so the finished face stays clean.

• Keep the inside edge of the form exactly 64½ inches from the fire pit to maintain a perfect circle for each quadrant.

Note on form height: Make sure the form’s top edge matches the slope you set with the dividers.

Step 5: Prepare the Base and Reinforcement

Base fill and compaction

• Reuse stones or base from earlier grading to raise the subgrade so the concrete depth ends up about 2½–3 inches.

• Compact thoroughly with a hand tamper.

Rebar layout

• Use fiberglass rebar, ≈3/8 in. Cut lengths to form a simple ring near the outer third of the wedge, with a few “spokes” toward the center. Tie with rebar wire.

• Fiberglass rebar is light, corrosion-proof, and easy to cut.

Release on forms

• Spray mold release on the divider 2×4 faces and on the inside of the outer form boards. This helps forms separate cleanly. Cooking oil can work in a pinch.

Step 6: Mix and Pour the First Wedge

Mixing options

• Mud mixer with hopper: fast and consistent, can load multiple bags at once.

• Small electric barrel mixer: affordable rental or purchase.

• Wheelbarrow and hoe: cheapest gear, most effort.

Batching

• A single 90° wedge at ~2½–3 in depth used about 20 bags of concrete. Your count varies by thickness and exact radius.

Placing

1. Fill the wedge evenly. Avoid dumping all weight in one spot.

2. Screed with a straight 2×4 resting on the dividers and outer form. Work diagonally and then with the curve as needed to level high spots and fill lows.

3. Bull float the surface. This smooths ridges and brings paste to the top.

4. Use a hand trowel where the bull float can’t reach.

5. Run a concrete edger along the exposed outer rim if a rounded edge is desired. This takes patience; if the edge tears, re-trowel and try again.

Timing matters: Do not stamp while the mud is soupy. The surface should support the roller yet still take impression. Test gently with fingertip pressure and a small roller pass in a corner.

Step 7: Stamp with a Texture Roller

Release agent

• Spray a generous coat of liquid release on the surface just before rolling. This stops the roller from sticking and pulling cream.

• If the roller grabs, add more release and/or wait a few minutes.

Rolling

• Use steady, overlapping passes. Align rows to avoid visible seams. A roller that’s a bit shorter than a paint roller is common; overlap to disguise stripes.

• If edges mark or feather, re-trowel lightly, add release, and reroll.

Too early? Too late?

• Too early: Roller tears the surface. Smooth, wait, and try again with more release.

• Too late: Roller won’t press texture. Lightly mist the surface and try again, but avoid overworking. If it’s set, move on; the stain can still add depth.

Step 8: Repeat for the Remaining Wedges

• Pour and finish the second wedge while the first cures enough to walk the edge without damage.

• For speed, one person can start rolling wedge one while another person pours wedge two.

• Keep the dividers in place until all sections have set at least overnight to preserve crisp joints.

Rain note: Concrete gains strength with time. Light rain several hours after finishing often will not harm set concrete. If storms are forecast, aim to finish early and tent the area if possible.

Step 9: Strip Forms and Clean

• Remove the outer forms and gently lift out each divider assembly. Angled screws help, but if screws are buried, lift the divider carefully as one piece.

• Wash the surface with a hose or pressure washer to remove release residue.

• Let the slab dry before staining.

Step 10: Stain the Surface

Stain choice

• Acetone-based concrete stain flashes off fast (often in seconds) and gives a natural mottled look.

Dilution

• Mix stain per manufacturer instructions. If the first pass is too dark, add another gallon of acetone to lighten the tone. Always test on a spare paver or a hidden spot before committing.

Sprayer warning

• Use a solvent-rated sprayer. Many pump sprayers are not acetone-safe and will fail. Check seals and ratings beforehand.

Application

• Spray in light, even passes. Work in arcs to avoid lap lines. Two light coats often look better than one heavy coat.

• Allow fast dry between coats (usually seconds to minutes). Follow label for recoat and cure times.

Optional sealer

• After stain cures, a compatible penetrating sealer can add protection. Make sure the slab is fully dry and weather is clear.

Cost Breakdown

• Concrete bags (80 lb): quantity varies by thickness and exact radius. For reference, a ~2½–3 in wedge used ~20 bags.

• Fiberglass rebar and ties

• Flexible form boards (reusable)

• Release agent (for forms and stamping)

• Stain + acetone

• Misc. screws, stakes, and tie wire

• Rentals (if needed): mixer, bull float (some stores rent floats for the cost of lunch)

A typical outlay lands around $400–$600 when tools are on hand or rented cheaply, compared to $4,000+ for a paver circle of the same size or even more for a contractor-poured stamped slab.

Troubleshooting and Tips

The circle isn’t perfect.Re-measure from the center stake. Keep the inside edge of the form at 64½ inches from the fire pit (adjust if your fire pit size differs).

The level line disappears in bright sun.Use a string level or long board with a bubble level. Outdoor lasers often don’t show in daylight despite marketing.

The divider boards stick.Release on wood helps. Angle screws from the top face make extraction easier. Pry evenly to avoid chipping edges.

The stamp tears the surface.That means it’s too wet or under-released. Smooth the area, add more release, wait a bit, and re-roll.

The stamp won’t mark.Surface is too hard. Try a light mist and quick roll, but do not overwork. The stain will still help with texture depth.

Edges look ragged after edging.The edger takes practice. Re-trowel, let the sheen return, and try again with lighter pressure. Or skip edging if a crisp square look is preferred.

Stain is blotchy.That’s normal for acetone stains and part of the look. If too dark, dilute more. Apply a second light coat to blend.

Sprayer fails during staining.That means seals weren’t solvent-safe. Replace with a sprayer rated for acetone or use a metal gun with solvent-proof seals.

Rain in the forecast.Aim to finish pours at least 4 hours before light rain so the surface is firm. Protect with a canopy if needed. Avoid stamping during rain.

Safety Notes

• Wear gloves, eye protection, and a respirator when handling cement powder, release agents, and acetone.

• Lift concrete bags with proper technique; use a dolly when possible.

• Keep children and pets away from wet concrete and tools.

• Store acetone and stains away from flames or sparks; provide ventilation.

Optional Upgrades

• Thicker slab: Increase to 3½–4 in in high-traffic zones. This raises bag count and labor.

• Wire mesh: In addition to fiberglass rebar, mesh can help control cracking on thicker pours.

• Integral color: Add color to the concrete mix for deeper tone before staining.

• Sealer: A non-gloss penetrating sealer can protect color and reduce staining.

• Edge banding: Add a contrasting stamped border for a custom look.

• Lighting: Install low-voltage lights around the rim for nighttime use.

Maintenance

• Sweep debris and rinse ash or food spills promptly.

• Avoid metal shovels on stamped surfaces.

• Re-apply a compatible sealer every 2–3 years if used.

• Inspect for hairline cracks after the first winter; most do not affect performance.