How to Build a Garden Bed or Garden Edging

Transforming a plain strip of lawn into a clean, structured garden bed can completely lift your home’s street appeal. It’s a satisfying DIY project that doesn’t require fancy tools or professional experience — just patience, a few bags of sand and cement, and some basic materials.

Here, you’ll learn how to build a garden bed or garden edging. We’ll walk through everything: marking out the space, digging the footing, laying pavers, leveling, adding plants, and finishing it off with decorative stones. By the end, you’ll have a crisp, low-maintenance garden edge that instantly makes your yard look polished.

What You’ll Need

Before you get started, gather your materials and tools. Most of these can be picked up from your local hardware store or garden center.

Materials

• Concrete pavers: 400mm × 200mm × 40mm (you can adjust for size or style)

• Sand and cement mix: for the dry footing

• Weed mat or landscape fabric

• Garden plants (Bill used Gardenias, spaced 700mm apart)

• Decorative pebbles or stones

• Topsoil (optional) if you’re turning it into a raised bed instead of edging

Tools

• Tape measure

• String line and pegs

• Spray paint or line marker

• Shovel and mattock

• Rubber mallet

• Spirit level

• Trowel

• Hose with mist setting

• Angle grinder with diamond blade (for cutting pavers)

• Wheelbarrow

Step 1: Plan and Mark Your Area

Every good project starts with planning. Begin by deciding where you want the garden bed or edging to go. Bill based his layout off an existing concrete slab, keeping the line parallel to it for a professional finish.

1. Measure 800mm from the wall or reference point (this is your garden width).

2. Drive a peg at that distance to mark the starting point.

3. Repeat this measurement on the opposite end of the wall or area to ensure everything stays square.

4. Run a string line tightly between the two pegs — this becomes your straight reference line.

Pro Tip: Use a string-line level to make sure the line is perfectly level from one side to the other. A straight, level line ensures your pavers won’t look wavy once installed.

Once you’re happy with the layout, use a spray can or line marker to trace along the string. This gives you a clear line to work from after you remove the string.

Step 2: Create a Footing Trench

The pavers will sit on a stable base — a footing made from sand and cement. To create it, you’ll dig a narrow trench where the pavers will be laid.

1. Take your shovel and cut along the painted line to a depth of about 50–70mm.

2. Measure 250mm away from that first line and mark another parallel line.

3. This gives enough width for your paver (200mm) plus some space for the footing behind it.

4. Dig out the soil and turf between the two lines.

You should now have a clean trench approximately 250mm wide and deep enough for your paver plus 40mm of footing. If you can, lift out the grass in large pieces. It’s often easier to remove whole chunks by hand than to scoop out loose soil repeatedly.

Step 3: Remove the Turf and Prepare the Bed

Now that your footing trench is ready, it’s time to clear the area that will become the garden bed itself.

Using a mattock, slice and lift the top layer of turf. You don’t need to dig too deep — just remove enough to get rid of the roots. This step prevents grass from growing back up through your decorative stones or soil later.

Dispose of the turf properly or repurpose it elsewhere in your yard.

Note: You’ll still be laying down a weed mat later, so don’t stress if a few small roots remain. The fabric will block most of the regrowth.

Step 4: Level and Prepare the String Line

Before laying any pavers, check that your string line is still square and level.

• Measure again: the distance from your wall to the string should be 800mm on both ends.

• Clip a small spirit level onto the string to verify that it’s flat.

Your pavers will align directly to this line, so any unevenness here will show later.

When the line is perfect, remove it temporarily — you’ll replace it after you’ve poured the dry mix.

Step 5: Lay the Dry Sand and Cement Footing

Rather than mixing a wet batch, this method uses a dry sand and cement mix. It’s cleaner, easier to work with, and gives you plenty of adjustment time before it sets.

1. Pour dry sand and cement (around a 6:1 ratio if mixing yourself) directly into the trench.

2. Spread it out evenly with a trowel so that it forms a smooth, level base.

3. Bring back your string line and set it to guide the height of the pavers.

The dry mix will be moistened later once everything is in position.

Step 6: Lay the First Paver

Start at one end of your trench. This first block sets the standard for every other piece.

1. Place your first paver directly onto the dry mix.

2. Check it’s level both front-to-back and side-to-side using your spirit level.

3. Adjust by tapping lightly with a rubber mallet — never a hammer — to avoid cracking.

4. Continue checking alignment with the string line.

Pro Tip: Don’t rush the first few pavers. Getting these perfectly aligned saves major headaches later.

Step 7: Continue Laying the Pavers

Repeat the process one block at a time.

• Add dry mix where needed.

• Place the next paver snugly against the first.

• Check the level each time.

Bill notes that this stage is repetitive but crucial. Take your time ensuring each piece is perfectly straight and level before moving on. You can use this exact process for both garden edging and raised garden beds — the only difference is what you fill the inside with later (soil for planting or stones for decoration).

Step 8: Mist and Set the Footing

Once several pavers are in place and you’re happy with the line, it’s time to set them.

1. Switch your hose to a mist setting.

2. Lightly mist the sand and cement along the edges — don’t flood it.

3. The moisture will slowly soak in, activating the cement without washing it away.

This gives you time to adjust any paver that’s slightly off before it hardens. The mix will continue to absorb water and set over the next 24–48 hours.

Use a trowel to smooth and tidy the sides, ensuring the footing is compact and neat.

Step 9: Cut Pavers for Corners and Edges

When you reach the end of your run, you may need to cut a paver to fit neatly against a wall or corner.

1. Mark the cut line using a pencil or marker.

2. Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade to slice through the paver cleanly.

3. Always wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask while cutting.

The result should be a crisp, professional-looking edge that sits flush with the house or boundary.

Step 10: Clean the Pavers

After you’ve laid all the pavers, give them a good rinse.

• Use the hose to wash away any loose sand or cement dust before it dries.

• Pay special attention to the front edge, since this will stay visible.

• Wipe off any residue to leave a sharp, clean finish.

Avoid soaking the footing too heavily — you just want to dampen it enough for the cement to cure gradually.

Step 11: Install the Weed Mat

With the edging complete, it’s time to prepare the garden bed area.

1. Roll out weed mat (landscape fabric) across the cleared soil.

2. Cut it to size, overlapping seams by at least 100mm.

3. Secure it with garden staples or pegs.

The weed mat keeps grass and weeds from creeping up through your pebbles or mulch. It also helps the garden stay tidy over time.

Step 12: Space and Plant Your Garden

Now for the fun part — adding life to your new garden bed.

Bill chose Gardenias, spaced 700mm apart. They’re evergreen shrubs with glossy leaves and fragrant white flowers that bloom throughout the year.

To plant:

1. Lay out your pots across the bed to visualize spacing.

2. Once you’re happy, cut X-shaped slits in the weed mat for each hole.

3. Dig your holes to the right depth, place the plants in, and backfill with soil.

4. Firm down around the base to remove air pockets.

Alternative options: Low hedging: Boxwood, dwarf Murraya, or lavender Color: Marigolds, petunias, or seasonal blooms Edibles: Herbs, lettuces, or strawberries for a small kitchen bed

Make sure to water the plants thoroughly once they’re in the ground.

Step 13: Add Decorative Pebbles

Pebbles instantly elevate the look of a garden bed and reduce maintenance by suppressing weeds and retaining moisture.

• Choose a stone color that complements your house. Bill used Southern White Pebbles for contrast against a white wall.

• Pour the stones into a wheelbarrow, then shovel them gently into the garden bed.

• Avoid pushing a heavy barrow directly on new pavers until the footing is fully cured.

Spread the stones evenly to about 40–60mm depth.

Step 14: Final Clean-Up and Touches

Once all the stones are in, take a few minutes to tidy up:

• Brush off pavers.

• Hose down light dust.

• Step back and check the line from different angles.

You should now see a crisp, level border framing your plants — simple, neat, and professional-looking.

Step 15: Enjoy the Transformation

After just half a day of work, you’ll have completely transformed your outdoor area. The finished garden bed offers:

• A clean edge that defines your lawn or driveway

• Low maintenance thanks to weed mat and stones

• A burst of greenery that softens hard surfaces

• Instant curb appeal

Bill’s project took around half to three-quarters of a day from start to finish, including planting and cleanup.

Bonus: Turning It into a Veggie Bed

If you’d rather grow vegetables or herbs than decorative plants, the same process applies — just skip the pebbles and fill the interior with quality garden soil or compost mix instead.

The pavers act as a durable border to keep soil contained and prevent lawn creep.

Troubleshooting Tips

Uneven pavers: Re-level by lifting the block, adding or removing dry mix, and tapping it back into place.

Cement haze on paver tops: Rinse thoroughly before the mix hardens. If it dries, use diluted vinegar and scrub lightly.

Weed regrowth: Ensure your weed mat edges overlap and tuck them under the pavers for a tighter seal.

Pavers moving after rain: They may not have cured fully. Add extra dry mix along the base and mist again.

Safety Reminders

• Always wear PPE when cutting or mixing materials.

• Use rubber-soled boots for grip.

• Keep kids and pets away until the mix has fully set (usually 48 hours).

• Handle tools carefully — angle grinders and shovels can cause injury if used incorrectly.

Maintenance Tips

• Reapply a fresh layer of pebbles every couple of years as they settle.

• Trim your plants regularly to maintain even spacing.

• Check for any shifting pavers after heavy rain and relevel as needed.

• Hose down the area occasionally to keep dust off the pavers and stones.

Why This Method Works So Well

Bill’s dry-lay method is efficient because:

• It gives you time to adjust each paver for perfect alignment.

• It uses minimal water — ideal for small DIY jobs.

• It avoids messy, wet mortar mixing.

• It’s strong enough for light edging or a single-layer garden bed.

Once the cement cures, the result is solid, durable, and clean.

Key Measurements Recap

Element	Measurement
Garden bed width	800mm (from wall)
Paver size	400 × 200 × 40mm
Footing width	250mm
Plant spacing	700mm
Pebble depth	40–60mm

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use bricks instead of pavers?

Yes. Bricks work fine, but smaller sizes will take longer to level and align. Pavers cover more ground quickly.

Do I need to mix the sand and cement wet?

No. The dry-lay method works perfectly for single rows. Just mist lightly with a hose after laying.

How long before it’s fully set?

About 24–48 hours, depending on weather. Avoid walking or placing heavy items on it during this period.

Can I curve the garden bed?

Yes. To create curves, mark them out with a flexible hose or rope, then use smaller pavers or cut angles with an angle grinder.

Will the weed mat stop all weeds?

It will stop most. Some airborne seeds may germinate in the stones, but they’re easy to pull out.

Summary

Building a garden bed or edging like this is one of the easiest DIY landscaping projects with the biggest visual payoff. You’ll define your outdoor space, add instant polish, and create a foundation for either decorative or edible plants — all in under a day.

Here’s the full process at a glance:

1. Mark and measure your area (keep it square).

2. Dig a trench for the footing.

3. Lay a dry sand and cement base.

4. Level and install your pavers.

5. Mist the mix to set.

6. Cut corners as needed.

7. Clean, install weed mat, plant, and fill with pebbles.

Once you’ve done it once, you can replicate the same process for any path, border, or raised bed around your home.

Final Thoughts

What makes this project so effective isn’t just the result — it’s how approachable it is. The materials are simple, the tools are basic, and the learning curve is low.

You don’t need a tradesperson to give your yard a fresh edge. With a tape measure, some pavers, and a few bags of dry mix, you can completely change the look of your home’s exterior in an afternoon.

So grab your shovel, line up your pavers, and give it a go.