How to Build Custom Cedar Driveway Gates on a Budget
- Staff Desk
- 1 hour ago
- 4 min read
A driveway gate adds security, privacy, and curb appeal — but buying one can be expensive. Many pre-built options cost between $2,500 and $3,000, plus shipping. By building gates from cedar lumber, you can achieve a custom look for under $400, including hardware.
This blog outlines how to design and build a pair of 4-foot cedar driveway gates that open in the center, with durable framing, weather protection, and an automatic opener system.
Why Build Instead of Buy?
Cost Savings – A DIY pair of cedar gates costs roughly one-sixth of comparable pre-made options.
Customization – You can design the exact look and height you want instead of settling for standard metal gates.
Scale and Proportion – Many pre-built models are 6 feet or taller, which can look oversized for residential driveways. A 4-foot-tall design provides balance while maintaining security.
Materials and Tools
Lumber and Hardware
Cedar 2x8s and 2x4s (for frame and diagonals)
Cedar 2x2s (for slats, ripped from 2x4s)
Exterior screws and Kreg XL pocket hole screws
Heavy-duty hinges (rated 400–900 lb)
L- and straight steel brackets for reinforcement
6x6 pressure-treated posts
Concrete mix for setting posts
Cabot Australian Timber Oil or exterior-grade wood sealer
Solar post lights (optional)
Automatic gate opener (Ghost Controls or equivalent)
Tools
Circular saw
Drill/driver
Kreg XL pocket hole jig
Clamps
Router (for chamfering edges)
Measuring tape, level, and line level
Shovel or post hole digger
Step 1: Measure and Plan
Measure the total width of your driveway. Divide by two to determine the width of each gate. Add hinge allowances and a 2-inch center gap between gates. Plan a design height of about 4 feet for balance and visibility.
Step 2: Build the Gate Frames
Each gate frame consists of:
Two vertical end posts (2x4 cedar)
One top and one bottom rail (2x8 cedar)
One diagonal brace (2x4 cedar)
Assemble the frame using pocket holes and screws. For outdoor projects, use the Kreg XL system—these larger pocket holes and screws are designed for stronger joints.
Step 3: Add the Diagonal Brace
A diagonal brace prevents sagging and strengthens the gate. To install:
Position a 2x4 from the lower hinge corner to the upper latch corner.
Mark and cut the ends to fit snugly in the corners.
Clamp the frame square (measure diagonals to confirm equal length).
Secure the diagonal brace with exterior screws.
A brace that runs from the top hinge down to the opposite corner places the member in compression, which helps the gate resist sagging over time.
Step 4: Install the Back Slats
Rip cedar 2x4s in half to make 2x2 slats. Trim both ends at 45 degrees on the corners for a finished look.
Space the slats evenly across the back side of each gate and fasten with exterior screws. This adds rigidity and visual detail.
Step 5: Smooth and Seal the Wood
Use a router with a chamfer bit to bevel the outer corners of the frame. Cedar can splinter, so sand rough areas as needed.
Apply an exterior wood finish such as Cabot Australian Timber Oil for weather protection and color. Allow the oil to penetrate and dry fully before installation.
Step 6: Reinforce the Hinged Corners
Attach steel reinforcement brackets on the hinge side of each gate:
A straight bracket across the top rail
An L-bracket on the lower corner
If your bottom rail is thicker, adding a second straight bracket can improve the visual balance and provide additional strength.
Step 7: Set the Gate Posts
Dig two post holes for 6x6 pressure-treated posts, spaced slightly wider than the combined gate widths plus hinge gaps.
Setting method:
Stand the first post upright and level.
Pour dry concrete mix directly into the hole and backfill. Moist ground and rainwater will cure the mix naturally.
Use a line level to align the second post to the first for height and alignment.
Once level and square, fill the second hole with concrete.
Allow the posts to cure at least overnight before hanging the gates.
Step 8: Hang the Gates
Attach the hinges to each gate using lag screws.
Set the gate on spacer blocks to achieve consistent ground clearance.
Mark hinge locations on the posts, drill pilot holes, and install the hinges.
Double-check that both gates open freely and align at the center.
Each gate in this build weighed approximately 53 pounds, light enough for heavy-duty hinges but sturdy enough for long-term use.
Step 9: Add Finishing Details
Solar Lights: Mount lights to the tops of the posts for visibility.
Automatic Opener: Install an electric or solar-powered opener system for convenience. For dual gates, run conduit or low-voltage wire beneath the driveway.
Keypad or Remote Access: Mount a keypad post near the entry for secure access.
Step 10: Add Side Fencing
To prevent vehicles from bypassing the gates, install short fence sections on each side:
Set 4x4 posts in concrete.
Run 2x6 cross boards spaced about 10 inches apart.
Attach 1x4 facing boards for a finished look.
Add post caps to protect from moisture.
Allow the treated wood to dry before staining or painting.
Step 11: Maintenance and Upgrades
Reapply sealer every 1–2 years for UV and moisture protection.
Check hinges, bolts, and opener alignment seasonally.
As wood expands and contracts, adjust spacing and hardware to prevent binding.
Future upgrades might include stone columns, larger solar fixtures, or decorative hardware.
Key Takeaways
Results
The finished double cedar driveway gates provide:
A custom fit at half the height of standard gates
Long-lasting cedar construction
Secure, automated operation
A natural look that complements residential landscapes
Beyond function, the project adds curb appeal and keeps unwanted traffic from entering the property — all for a fraction of the price of prefabricated gates.