How to Convert a Tub Surround Into a Walk-In Shower
- Staff Desk
- 6 hours ago
- 5 min read
Converting a traditional bathtub surround into a walk-in shower is one of the most effective ways to modernize a bathroom, increase accessibility, and boost long-term property value. Many older homes were built with standard alcove bathtubs surrounded by fiberglass or tile walls, and while these installations served their purpose for decades, they often lack convenience, efficiency, and updated visual appeal. Today, walk-in showers offer better use of space, easier cleaning, greater accessibility, and endless design flexibility.
1. Understanding the Scope of a Tub-to-Shower Conversion
Before beginning any physical work, it’s crucial to understand what a tub-to-shower conversion entails. Removing a tub surround and installing a walk-in shower requires a combination of demolition, structural assessment, plumbing modification, waterproofing, and finishing work. Because plumbing and waterproofing are critical, each step must be completed with precision.
What this project typically includes:
Removing the tub and existing surround
Cutting and modifying the drain line
Adjusting supply lines for a new shower valve
Building or installing a shower pan or base
Waterproofing the walls and floor
Installing tile backer or surround panels
Tiling or installing solid-surface walls
Adding glass doors or a curtain system
Installing fixtures and accessories
Benefits of switching to a walk-in shower:
Improves bathroom accessibility
Makes the bathroom look larger
Modernizes outdated bathrooms
Allows better use of awkward alcove spaces
Provides customization options (niches, benches, rain heads)
Increases home resale appeal
2. Tools and Materials You May Need
Primary Tools
Reciprocating saw
Pry bars (flat and heavy-duty)
Hammer and mallet
Utility knife
Level (2 ft and 4 ft)
Measuring tape
Cordless drill
Hole saw kit
Pipe wrenches and adjustable wrenches
PVC cutters or oscillating tool
Notched trowels (for tile work)
Bucket, sponges, mixing paddle
Demolition Materials
Heavy-duty contractor bags
Tarps
Dust masks and goggles
Gloves
Drop cloths for flooring
Plumbing Materials
Shower valve and trim kit
PEX, copper, or PVC fittings
PVC cement and primer
Drain assembly
Supply line extensions
Pipe straps
Shower Construction Materials
Shower pan (prefabricated) or mortar bed materials
Waterproofing membrane (liquid-applied or sheet membrane)
Cement board or foam board panels
Thinset mortar
Backer screws
Tile, grout, and spacers
Sealant (100% silicone)
Glass door kit or curtain rod
3. Step-by-Step Conversion Process
Step 1: Prepare the Workspace
Before demolition, protect your bathroom surfaces and set up proper safety precautions.
Checklist:
Turn off the water supply
Shut power to any electrical circuits near the tub
Cover floors with drop cloths
Remove shower curtains, accessories, and shelving
Ensure adequate ventilation
Step 2: Remove the Old Tub Surround
Tub surrounds are typically made of fiberglass, acrylic panels, or tile. The removal technique depends on the material, but the goal is the same: expose the studs and plumbing.
Fiberglass or Acrylic Surround Removal
Cut the caulking around the surround.
Use a utility knife to score edges at the corners.
Locate the seams between panels and gently pry them away.
Cut panels into manageable pieces before removing.
Tile Surround Removal
Break the first tile using a hammer and chisel.
Loosen adjacent tiles and peel them off.
Remove the cement board or drywall behind the tiles.
Continue until all three walls are exposed down to the studs.
Step 3: Remove the Bathtub
Once the surround is removed, the tub becomes accessible.
How to remove the tub:
Disconnect the drain by removing the overflow screws and drain shoe.
Remove the drain flange with a drain wrench.
Cut any plumbing connections leading to the tub waste and overflow.
Remove nails or screws securing the tub flange to studs.
Pry the tub forward and slide it out of the alcove.
Cast iron tubs may need to be broken into sections with a sledgehammer (wear protective equipment).
Step 4: Modify the Plumbing
A walk-in shower requires different plumbing height and configuration than a bathtub.
Drain Adjustment
Bathtubs typically use a 1.5" drain line.
Showers require a 2" drain line for faster flow.
This often involves cutting the floor and upgrading the line.
Install the new drain assembly according to the shower pan specs.
Shower Valve and Supply Line Adjustment
Raise water supply lines (hot and cold) to shower height.
Install a pressure-balanced or thermostatic shower valve.
Add drop-ear elbow for the shower arm.
Pressure test all new plumbing before closing walls.
Step 5: Choose and Install a Shower Pan
You can choose between:
1. Prefabricated shower pan
Easiest for DIY
Reliable waterproofing
Available in acrylic, stone, composite, fiberglass
2. Custom mortar bed
Allows custom sizing
Ideal for tile showers
Requires more skill
Installation steps for a prefabricated pan:
Dry-fit the pan to ensure correct leveling.
Install drain gasket and attach drain body.
Mix and apply mortar bed under pan (if manufacturer requires).
Place the pan and ensure it is perfectly level.
Secure with screws or adhesive as instructed.
Proper leveling ensures water flows toward the drain with no pooling.
Step 6: Install Wall Backer Board
Cement board or waterproof foam board is required for tiled walls.
Installation Method:
Cut boards to size with a utility knife or saw.
Leave a ¼-inch gap above the shower pan.
Screw boards into studs using backer screws.
Tape seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape.
Apply thinset over seams.
Step 7: Waterproof the Shower Walls and Floor
Waterproofing is one of the most important stages in building a walk-in shower.
Two primary methods exist:
1. Liquid Waterproofing
Products like RedGard or Hydro Ban are applied with a roller or brush.
Apply first coat horizontally
Apply second coat vertically
Ensure proper thickness
2. Sheet Membranes
Examples: Kerdi membrane or similar products
Bond sheets to backer board with thinset
Overlap seams per manufacturer instructions
Seal all edges with waterproof bands
Pan-to-wall junction is critical
Be sure this seam is fully sealed to prevent future leaks.
Step 8: Tile Installation (If Using Tile Walls)
Shower tile installation requires patience and precision.
General Tiling Steps:
Plan tile layout to avoid awkward slivers.
Start tiling from the ledger board (a temporary straight piece).
Apply thinset with the correct notched trowel.
Press tiles firmly to ensure full coverage.
Use tile spacers for consistent gaps.
Cut tiles using a wet saw.
After tiling is complete:
Allow thinset to cure 24 hours
Apply grout
Wipe off haze
Seal grout (unless using epoxy grout)
Step 9: Install Shower Fixtures
Once the walls are complete, fixtures can be installed.
Typical fixtures include:
Shower head
Handheld shower
Mixing valve trim
Diverter
Body sprays (optional)
Shelves, niches, or corner caddies
Glass shower door or curtain rod
Be sure all components are sealed with 100% silicone where required.
Step 10: Finishing Touches
To complete the walk-in shower:
Add baseboards or trim
Install towel bars or hooks
Seal all transitions with silicone
Test water pressure and drainage
Clean grout lines and polish fixtures
The final step is verifying that no water escapes beyond the intended shower zone.
Cost Breakdown
Tier | Description | Estimated Cost (USD) |
Low-end DIY | Prefab shower pan + basic wall panels | $2,000 – $8,000 |
Mid-range | Tiled walls + upgraded fixtures | $4,000 – $15,000 |
High-end / Premium | Stone tile or natural stone surfaces, custom plumbing, frameless glass | $8,000 – $12,000+ |
Labor + Demolition (Professional) | Includes tub removal, plumbing adjustments, tile work | $1,500 – $8,000 |
12. Common Mistakes to Avoid
Failing to upgrade the tub drain to 2 inches
Improper slope in the shower pan
Inadequate waterproofing
Not installing the valve at correct depth
Using drywall instead of cement board
Skipping expansion joints
Incorrect thinset type
Insufficient cure time before using shower
13. Timeline Estimate
A full conversion typically takes:
DIY: 5–10 days
Demolition: 1 day
Plumbing modifications: 1–2 days
Shower pan & walls: 1–2 days
Waterproofing: 1 day
Tiling & grouting: 2–3 days
Finishing & curing: 1 day
Professional Crew: 2–4 days
Conclusion
Converting a tub surround into a walk-in shower is one of the most rewarding upgrades for a bathroom. It improves functionality, enhances appearance, and increases long-term value. With proper planning, the right materials, and attention to detail, this project can be successfully completed by experienced DIYers or easily handled by professionals. Following the step-by-step process—demolition, plumbing, pan installation, waterproofing, and finishing—ensures durability, safety, and a long-lasting result.