How to Install a Concrete Driveway Drain
- Staff Desk
- 4 hours ago
- 6 min read

When it rains hard, water should flow away from your driveway — not pool or run down into your garage or yard.If you’ve ever seen water rushing down your drive and collecting near your house, you probably need a drainage channel or valley gutter.
In this simple guide, we’ll walk you through how to install a drain along your driveway, just like in the video. You’ll learn how to plan it, cut the concrete, set the drain, pour the new concrete, and finish it so it looks clean and professional. This is a small project that makes a big difference when it comes to keeping your property dry and your concrete strong.
Why You Need a Driveway Drain
Driveways often slope toward the house or garage.When heavy rain hits, water finds the lowest path — and without a good drain, it can:
Flood your garage or carport
Erode the driveway edge
Create cracks and puddles in concrete
Cause long-term water damage to foundations
A simple drain trench at the low point of your driveway solves the problem by giving rainwater a place to go.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
You don’t need fancy equipment — just the basics.Here’s what you’ll need for a small concrete drain install:
Materials
Channel or trench drain (plastic or metal)
PVC drain pipe (to connect to an outlet or slope)
Ready-mix concrete (about 1–2 cubic yards for small areas)
Rebar (for strength)
Fast-setting mortar mix (“hot mud”)
Wooden stakes and screws
Masonite or plywood (to cover and protect drain while pouring)
Tools
Concrete saw or angle grinder (for cutting existing concrete)
Shovel and wheelbarrow
Drill and masonry bit
Level
Tape measure
Hammer
Trowel and float
Broom
Optional:
Concrete vibrator (to remove air pockets and settle the mix)
Safety gear: gloves, mask, goggles, ear protection
Step 1: Plan and Mark the Drain Location
Start by identifying where water collects or flows on your driveway.Usually, this is near the garage door, the center valley, or a low dip in the concrete.
Mark the line where you want the drain to go using chalk or spray paint. Make sure it runs slightly downhill so water can move freely toward the outlet.
If you’re tying it into an existing drainage pipe, note where that connection will be.
Step 2: Cut the Concrete
Use a concrete saw or angle grinder to make a clean cut along both sides of your marked line. You’ll be removing a narrow section of the old driveway — wide enough to fit the new drain channel and pipe.
Cut slowly and carefully. Make two straight cuts about 4–6 inches apart, then break out the center section with a hammer and chisel or small jackhammer.
This step creates a neat trench for your new drain to sit in.
Step 3: Prepare the Drain Channel
Set out your drain sections and test-fit them in the trench before adding any concrete.
If they need trimming, cut them to fit.Make sure:
The top of the drain will sit slightly lower than the driveway surface (about ¼ inch lower).
The drain runs in a straight line and slopes gently toward the outlet.
Once it looks good, remove them again — you’ll set them permanently after the next step.
Step 4: Secure the Drain in Place
Now, it’s time to set the drain before you pour new concrete.
Here’s an easy way:
Drive a few wooden stakes into the ground on each side of the trench.
Screw the drain channel lightly to the stakes to hold it in position.
Mix up a small batch of fast-setting mortar (“hot mud”) and place it under the drain to keep it steady.
Check that it’s level from side to side, and sloped slightly along the length.
Once the mortar starts to harden, remove the stakes. The drain should stay put.
Step 5: Protect the Top of the Drain
Before pouring new concrete, protect the drain channel so it doesn’t fill with concrete by accident.
Cut thin strips of masonite (¼-inch thick) or plywood and place them over the top of the drain.This does two things:
Keeps the inside clean.
Ensures the new concrete surface will sit just slightly above the drain (about ¼ inch higher), so water flows easily into it.
Step 6: Add Rebar and Prepare for Concrete
To make the new section strong and long-lasting:
Drill small holes into the edges of the existing driveway (every 2–3 feet).
Insert short pieces of rebar to tie the old and new concrete together.
Brush away all dust and debris before pouring.
This connection prevents the new section from cracking or separating later.
Step 7: Mix and Pour the Concrete
For small jobs, 1–2 cubic yards of ready-mix concrete is enough.If you’re mixing by hand, follow the bag instructions carefully.
Here are a few quick tips:
Ask for a 2% accelerator if rain is forecast or temperatures are cool — it helps concrete cure faster.
Pour the mix fairly dry (not too runny) for better control.
Use a vibrator or shovel to push concrete under the drain and fill any gaps.
Pour evenly around the drain until it matches the height of the existing driveway surface.
Step 8: Smooth and Finish the Surface
Once poured, use a trowel to smooth the new concrete and blend it into the old surface.Don’t overwork it — just level and finish lightly.
If water or mud starts running down while you’re finishing (as it did in the video), sweep it away quickly. A little surface water won’t hurt once the concrete sets, but avoid puddles sitting on fresh concrete.
When the surface looks good, let it set undisturbed.
Step 9: Let It Cure
Let the concrete dry for at least 24 hours before removing the masonite covers or stepping on it.If rain is expected overnight, cover the area with plastic or a tarp.
The next day, check the surface — it should feel firm, and the drain top should be clean and flush.
Step 10: Connect Drain Pipes and Backfill
Once the concrete is set:
Connect your drain outlet pipe to direct water away (into a gravel area, drainage pit, or existing line).
Backfill around the pipe with soil and compact it gently.
Replace any grass or turf you removed earlier.
Step 11: Test the Drain
Finally, test your new drain with a garden hose.Run water down the driveway and watch how it flows.
If everything’s level and sloped right, water should run straight into the drain and disappear — no puddles, no overflow, no flooding.
Step 12: Clean Up and Maintain
Once finished, clean tools immediately before the concrete hardens.You can brush or hose off any dust and lightly broom the surface for grip.
Over time:
Keep the drain clear of leaves or mud.
Flush it with a hose every few months.
Reseal nearby concrete if it starts to crack or wear.
Regular maintenance means you won’t have to redo the job for many years.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Pro Tips for a Clean Finish
Always check the slope with a level before pouring.
Use accelerator if weather looks uncertain.
Vibrate or tap around the drain to fill gaps under it.
Keep tools and forms clean as you go.
Don’t rush removal — let concrete set properly before pulling boards or covers.
Safety First
When cutting and mixing concrete:
Wear eye protection, ear protection, and a mask.
Keep pets and kids away from the work area.
Lift bags carefully — concrete is heavy!
If using power tools, make sure cords stay dry and safe.
The Results
Once cured, your new drain will:
Guide rainwater away efficiently
Prevent puddles near cars or garage doors
Extend the life of your driveway
Make your property safer and cleaner
In just a day or two of work, you’ll solve a long-term drainage issue and keep your concrete in great shape.
Quick Recap
Here’s the whole process in short:
Mark where the water collects.
Cut out a trench in the concrete.
Set your drain and secure it with mortar.
Cover the top with masonite.
Add rebar dowels into old concrete.
Pour new concrete evenly.
Smooth and finish the surface.
Let it cure.
Connect drain pipes.
Test with water — and you’re done!
Final Thoughts
Installing a concrete drain might seem like a small project, but it can make a huge difference when it rains.With basic tools, a bit of patience, and a dry day, you can add proper drainage to your driveway and prevent long-term damage.
Remember — good prep is everything. Take your time setting the drain level right, and the rest of the project will go smoothly. A few hours of work now can save you thousands later in concrete repairs or water damage. So the next time heavy rain rolls in, you’ll watch it flow right down your new drain — exactly where it belongs.