How to Roof a House

Roofing might seem intimidating, but with the right tools, patience, and a solid plan, it’s a project you can understand — and even tackle on your own if you’re comfortable working at heights. This blog walks you through how to tear off and re-roof a typical ranch-style home, about 15 squares in size, as shown in Life’s Apprentice’s tutorial.

We’ll cover each stage in order, from the tear-off to the final shingles.

1. Preparing for the Job

Before you climb the ladder, take a few minutes to prep. Roofing is physically demanding, and weather plays a big role. Ideally, you want a cool, dry day with minimal wind. Light rain or mist can slow progress and make the surface slippery, so safety should always come first.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

• Roofing shovel (tear-off shovel):Designed with serrated teeth that pull nails as you lift shingles. You can find them at most hardware stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, or Menards.

• Claw hammer or pry bar: For any stubborn nails that stay behind.

• Framing nail gun: Useful for re-nailing loose or warped sheathing.

• Ice and water shield: A waterproof underlayment that protects against leaks.

• Synthetic roofing felt (tar paper): A lightweight, durable layer under the shingles.

• Roofing nails: Galvanized nails that resist corrosion.

• Starter shingles and main shingles: The visible layer of the roof.

• Drip edge or D-edge: Metal trim that directs water into the gutters.

• Gutter apron (if needed): Installed at the eaves to prevent water from getting behind the fascia.

2. Tearing Off the Old Roof

The process begins with removing all existing shingles and nails. Start at the ridge, the highest part of the roof, and work your way down.

Step 1: Remove the Shingles

Use your roofing shovel to pry up shingles, working from top to bottom. It’s tempting to rip everything off at once, but it’s better to work in sections — especially if the weather looks uncertain.

Step 2: Pull Remaining Nails

Once shingles are gone, inspect the roof deck for leftover nails. You can use:

• The roofing shovel’s teeth to pry them up, or

• A hammer and pry bar to pull them individually.

While some contractors simply pound nails flat, it’s better to pull them. Hammering them through can tear the underlayment when you remove the paper.

Step 3: Remove the Tar Paper

When nails are out, roll up and remove the old tar paper. It’s fine to leave it temporarily during bad weather, but it must come off before laying new underlayment.

Inspect for soft or rotted plywood. Any section that feels spongy underfoot or looks discolored needs to be replaced. Cut out the damaged area and install new sheathing.

3. Inspecting and Repairing the Roof Deck

A sound base ensures the new roof lasts. Check for:

• Loose seams between plywood sheets.

• Nail pops or warped boards.

• Rotten edges near eaves or valleys.

Use a framing nailer to re-secure any loose boards. Nail seams tightly, especially where plywood meets at joints. Replace any sheet that has rot or mold.

Life’s Apprentice recommends 7/16-inch plywood or OSB for most roofing projects — thick enough for stability but light enough to handle easily.

4. Installing Ice and Water Shield

Ice and water shield is a self-adhesive waterproof membrane that protects the most vulnerable areas of the roof, such as eaves and valleys.

Step 1: Understand Code Requirements

In most cold-climate regions, local code requires ice and water shield to extend at least three feet past the exterior wall line of the house. That typically means running two rows up from the eaves.

Step 2: The Right Way to Layer It

There’s ongoing debate about whether ice and water shield should go under or over the gutter apron. Life’s Apprentice recommends installing it over the apron.

Here’s why:

• If you place it under, any water that sneaks behind the gutter apron can soak the fascia board and cause rot.

• If it’s over, water flows properly into the gutter system.

Step 3: Applying It

• Start at the bottom edge and unroll the sheet about ten feet at a time.

• Leave about ½ inch hanging past the edge of the roof.

• Staple it lightly in place while you work.

• Avoid wrinkles; they’ll show through the shingles later.

Each row should overlap the one below by about six inches. Press firmly to ensure full adhesion, especially in warm weather when the material bonds quickly.

5. Laying Synthetic Underlayment (Tar Paper)

Next comes the underlayment, which adds another layer of moisture protection between the roof deck and shingles.

Why Synthetic Felt Beats Traditional Felt

Traditional 15- or 30-pound felt used to be standard, but most roofers today prefer synthetic underlayment. It’s lighter, covers more area per roll, resists tearing, and lays flatter.

Step 1: Start at the Bottom

Roll out the felt horizontally, starting from the eave and working upward. Each new row should overlap the one below by about four inches.

Step 2: Keep It Straight

Take time to align each row carefully. The printed lines, letters, and dots on the synthetic felt help keep your shingle rows straight. This is key — if your underlayment runs crooked, your shingles will too. Staple or nail it down, being careful not to create bubbles or folds.

6. Installing the Drip Edge or D-Edge

Drip edge is a metal flashing that directs water off the roof and into the gutters. It prevents water from curling back under the shingles and damaging the fascia.

• Nail the drip edge on top of the underlayment along the rakes (the sides).

• Keep the nails about every 12 to 16 inches, centered between the small ribs on the flashing.

• Pull it snug against the fascia as you go.

If you’re installing gutter apron at the eaves, it goes under the ice and water shield, while the D-edge goes over the underlayment on the sides.

7. Starter Shingles

Starter shingles are crucial — they seal the bottom edge and prevent water from seeping under the first course of shingles.

Step 1: Lining Up the Starters

Start along the eave, holding the starter strip about ⅜ inch over the edge of the roof. Nail about every foot, avoiding seams.

Step 2: Offsetting the First Course

Your first full shingle row should start six inches back from the edge of the starter course. This offset staggers the seams, preventing leaks.

Avoid placing nails near the seams — that’s one of the biggest mistakes DIYers make. You can four-nail, five-nail, or six-nail your shingles depending on manufacturer specs, but always follow the directions printed on the shingle bundle.

8. Shingling the Roof

Now for the main event — installing shingles. This step determines how your roof looks and how well it performs.

Step 1: Nail Placement and Pressure

Each shingle has a nailing zone, often marked by a tar strip or line. Place nails about an inch from each end and spaced evenly along that strip.

Avoid:

• Over-driven nails: These break through the shingle mat and weaken the hold.

• Under-driven nails: They stick up and can puncture the shingle above.

• Angled nails: Always keep the gun flat against the surface.

You should drive the nail flush — not too deep, not too shallow.

Step 2: Following the Common Bond

Architectural shingles have two layers. When you nail through the common bond — the overlapping part between layers — you actually double your holding power. That’s why nail placement is so important.

Step 3: The Stair-Step Pattern

Each new row of shingles should start six inches back from the one below, creating a stair-step pattern. This keeps seams staggered and helps with water flow.

Continue this pattern across the roof until you reach the ridge.

9. Checking for Straight Lines

As you move up, periodically check that your shingles are straight. If you’re not snapping chalk lines, use the underlayment’s printed marks or letters as visual guides. A slight drift early on might not seem noticeable, but by the time you reach the ridge, it can turn into a visible wave. Take mental notes of where each course lines up — for example, following the bottom of a letter or a specific printed dot.

10. Finishing the Ridge and Details

Once the main shingles reach the ridge, trim the last row flush with the peak. The remaining steps include installing:

• Ridge caps or ridge vent

• Plumbing boots

• Pod vents

• Final flashing

Each of these components helps your roof breathe, shed water, and last longer. Life’s Apprentice has separate tutorials on each of these finishing elements.

11. Final Checks

Before cleaning up, inspect everything carefully:

• Look for any raised shingles that didn’t seal.

• Make sure all nails are flush and properly placed.

• Verify that the drip edge overlaps correctly at corners.

• Remove debris from gutters and the ground.

A tidy jobsite isn’t just about appearance — loose nails or scraps can cause damage or injuries later.

12. Safety Tips

Roofing isn’t just labor-intensive; it’s risky. Keep these safety points in mind:

• Wear non-slip shoes or boots with good traction.

• Use a roofing harness on steep pitches.

• Never work alone.

• Keep your tools secured and cords out of walkways.

• Stay hydrated, and take breaks when needed.

13. Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced DIYers can make costly errors. Watch out for these:

1. Crooked shingle lines: Start straight, stay straight.

2. Skipping ice and water shield: This layer prevents leaks and ice dams.

3. Nailing too high or too low: Always stay within the manufacturer’s nailing zone.

4. Not overlapping properly: Each layer must overlap the one below to shed water.

5. Working in bad weather: Wind or heat can make materials difficult to handle.

14. Wrapping Up

When done correctly, a roof should last 20 to 30 years or more. It’s a big project, but with patience and attention to detail, you can end up with professional-quality results. As Life’s Apprentice says, roofing isn’t about shortcuts. It’s about doing each step right — from a clean tear-off to proper nail placement and straight, even rows.