Transforming a Closed Staircase Into a Modern, Open Showpiece

Most homes have stairways that feel enclosed and dark. These confined spaces often lack natural light and can make an otherwise open floor plan feel dated. Converting a closed stairway into an open, contemporary centerpiece can dramatically improve both aesthetics and functionality.

1. Evaluating the Existing Staircase and Wall

The first step in any structural remodel is determining whether the wall enclosing the stairway is load-bearing. After removing drywall to expose framing, it’s crucial to identify which components carry load from the floor or roof above.

In most two-story homes, the wall adjacent to the stairs supports joists from the upper level. The presence of double top plates, posts beneath beams, or large stair stringers are all signs of structural support. In this case, the wall contained two primary studs acting as a central post beneath a beam that spanned the floor above. These carried significant structural load and could not be removed without reinforcement.

Other studs in the wall were simply for trim or drywall support. Non-structural members, such as blocking added for skirtboards or carpeting, can safely be removed to simplify the new design. Confirming this before demolition prevents structural movement and ensures code compliance.

2. Planning the Structural Support

Once the layout of load-bearing elements is understood, new structural support must be planned before removing any existing framing. There are two main options for carrying the load above an open stairwell:

1. Add a beam directly above the old wall line.This is easier to install but visually divides the space.

2. Install a concealed beam higher in the ceiling.This approach maintains an uninterrupted open feel, but is more difficult to frame.

For a seamless, modern look, the concealed-beam method is preferred. To execute it, drywall along the ceiling adjacent to the stairwell is cut back to expose joist ends and verify bearing points. Ideally, the existing joists terminate into a rim joist or beam where a new structural member can tie in.

Upon inspection, a proper rim joist and hangers were already in place — confirming that the existing framing could support a new post without additional heavy reinforcement. This discovery simplified the project significantly, eliminating the need for complex new beam installation.

3. Material Preparation and Post Installation

A new structural post was required at the open corner to replace the portion of wall being removed. A 4x4 post was initially planned, but only treated lumber was available locally. Because treated wood tends to twist as it dries, the post was built from two straight 2x4s laminated together with a spacer to maintain squareness.

Before cutting out the old framing, two load-bearing studs were left temporarily in place to prevent movement. The top plate was cut on both sides of the existing stud to create room for the new post. The new assembly was then inserted, plumbed, and fastened securely into the header and subfloor.

4. Completing the Demolition

With the post installed and the structure secure, the remaining wall studs and drywall were removed. The result was an immediate transformation — the stairway appeared larger and brighter even before finishing began.

During demolition, any existing base caps, trim, or carpet tack strips were carefully removed to expose the rough stair framing. Older homes often have inconsistent stair framing, where treads and risers are uneven or warped. These surfaces need correction before new finishes are applied.

5. Leveling and Replacing the Stair Treads

Carpeted stairs typically hide construction-grade treads that are uneven, cupped, or squeaky. Each tread was inspected with a level. Many had a noticeable hump or slope of up to a quarter inch across three feet, making them unsuitable for a precision finish.

Rather than selectively repairing a few steps, all treads were replaced for consistency. Removing and replacing every tread ensures a flat and level base for new flooring or nosing.

To eliminate squeaks, new treads were glued and screwed to the stringers using construction adhesive and trim-head screws. This combination provides a solid, quiet surface.

When repositioning the treads, they were installed flush with the riser framing instead of overhanging by an inch as in the original construction. This allowed the finished riser to sit directly under the nosing, producing a clean, modern appearance without filler blocks.

6. Preparing Risers and Finishes

Risers were fabricated from ¾-inch birch plywood rather than thinner panels. The thicker material provided better stiffness and also covered small gaps between the stringer and wall framing.

Each riser received two coats of trim-grade paint before installation. Pre-finishing these components minimizes cutting-in later and prevents uneven edges after assembly.

When cutting risers and treads, accuracy is critical because few existing stair stringers are perfectly square or parallel. A professional stair-gauge tool makes it easy to transfer exact angles and dimensions from the stair to each workpiece.

To ensure a tight fit, a five-degree bevel was cut on the bottom and sides of each riser. This bevel allows the piece to slide snugly into place even when the surrounding framing is slightly uneven. After fitting each riser, joints along skirtboards and corners were caulked for a clean appearance. Any small gaps due to imperfect framing were filled with flexible sealant.

7. Building the Cap and Waterfall Edge

With the main framing complete, attention turned to the upper landing and side wall cap. The goal was to create a continuous, furniture-grade surface that visually anchors the stairwell.

A cap board was ripped from a one-by-eight to a finished width of 6¾ inches. This dimension provided sufficient landing width for the railing posts and allowed adjacent trim and baseboard to die cleanly into the edges.

The cap was notched to fit around the new post and wall returns, then glued and pinned in place. At the open end, a “waterfall edge” — a mitered vertical return — was fabricated. This gave the top of the wall a seamless look, with the cap turning down the face of the stair.

Precise compound bevels (for example, 38° and 26°) ensured tight miters even against out-of-plumb walls. All joints were glued, pinned, and sanded before priming.

8. Reconstructing the Lower Landing

At the base of the stairs, framing was extended to create a wider first tread that projected beyond the existing stringer line. This provided visual balance and room for a mitered nosing return — a common feature in higher-end stair designs.

A plywood sub-base was installed flush with the old sill plate and stringers. Once secured, a new riser covered the gap between the extended tread and the floor. Each sub-tread was glued and screwed down tightly to prevent future squeaks. The extended tread provided a clear location for the new column wrap and trim transition at the stair base.

9. Extending and Aligning the Skirtboard

On most stairways, the skirtboard — the trim running along the wall beside the steps — terminates awkwardly near the bottom tread. To create a finished look, a skirtboard extension was fabricated and scribed to match the angle and curvature of the existing board.

Because the wall and stringer were not perfectly plumb, shims were used strategically behind the extension to achieve a consistent reveal. Edges were rounded and blended so that once painted, the joint disappears completely.

10. Wrapping the New Column

The structural post installed earlier was wrapped with primed finger-joint pine boards to form a clean, square column. Miter joints slightly sharper than 45° were used to ensure tight seams after glue-up.

The boards were dry-fit first, then glued and nailed. A screwdriver shaft was run along the joint to “burnish” the edges, compressing fibers and creating a nearly invisible seam once painted. The column was left to dry overnight before sanding and painting.

11. Installing the Railing System

The new railing was designed to match modern building codes and provide a sleek visual line up the stair. The process began by setting up a laser level to establish the top height of the handrail, approximately 35 inches above the nosing.

A continuous line was marked along both the upper wall and the new column. The handrail angle matched the pitch of the stairs, and both rails on opposite sides were aligned to the same reference plane for symmetry.

To determine baluster spacing, a stair-layout calculator on blocklayer.com was used. By entering the stair run, rise angle, and baluster size, exact spacing measurements were produced automatically. This avoided manual math errors and ensured compliance with the standard 4-inch sphere rule.

12. Fabricating the Baluster Rail Plate

Balusters were made of ½-inch square steel and set into matching mortises drilled into the base plate and underside of the handrail.

A drill press equipped with a square-mortise chisel was used to bore precise holes at the correct angle. The drill depth was set to about 2¾ inches to securely seat each baluster. The workpiece was clamped with a fence to maintain uniform spacing.

For builders without a drill press, the same look can be achieved by framing a channel strip from wood and spacing the balusters with filler blocks. Once painted, this method provides an equally clean appearance as long as square balusters are used.

13. Painting and Assembly

After all mortises were drilled, the railing components were pre-finished with two coats of paint or clear polyurethane. Pre-finishing saves time later and prevents bare wood from showing in tight joints.

The base plate at the stair’s lower section was installed first and leveled carefully. A test baluster was inserted to verify fit and vertical alignment. Once confirmed, all balusters were installed alternately: plain square styles interspersed with decorative patterned versions for visual rhythm.

Each joint received a small bead of adhesive before pin-nailing. Trim screws through the hidden underside of the handrail added long-term strength.

14. Installing the Handrail on the Opposite Wall

Building codes typically require a graspable handrail on both sides of a staircase. To install the secondary rail, the same laser level was used to project the line from the existing handrail to the opposite wall.

Bottom and top brackets were installed first to establish alignment. A temporary support board resting on the treads held the rail in place while the remaining brackets were fastened.

Each end of the handrail received a smooth “return to wall” fitting, preventing clothing from snagging and meeting code for safety.

15. Finishing and Detailing

Once the structural and finish carpentry were complete, all trim joints were caulked, nail holes filled, and surfaces sanded smooth. Edges at the column and cap were feathered with filler for a seamless transition.

Paint was applied evenly across the new post wrap, skirtboard extensions, and wall cap. The combination of crisp white trim, matching risers, and natural wood treads provided a striking modern contrast.

The extended first tread with its mitered nosing became a highlight of the staircase. The new open wall, finished cap, and elegant balusters transformed the once-dark stairwell into a bright architectural feature.

16. Key Design and Construction Considerations

1. Structure First:Always verify load paths and provide proper support before removing framing. Use engineered lumber or consult an engineer when spanning large openings.

2. Level and Square:Stair framing rarely is. Take the time to plane, shim, and level each tread and riser.

3. Pre-Finishing Saves Time:Painting risers, columns, and trim before assembly reduces mess and touch-ups.

4. Precision Tools:Stair gauges and laser levels speed up layout and improve accuracy.

5. Noise Control:Glue and screw all treads to eliminate squeaks. Construction adhesive under each step is essential.

6. Aesthetic Alignment:Align miters, skirtboards, and handrail angles to visual lines in the room. Symmetry makes the difference between “DIY” and “custom.”

7. Safety Compliance:Maintain correct handrail height and baluster spacing. Add returns to wall ends.

8. Future Maintenance:Use removable fasteners where future access may be needed, especially around hidden cavities or lighting.

17. The Finished Transformation

After installation and final paint, the transformation was complete. The stairway, once enclosed and dim, became an open vertical focal point that visually connected both floors. Light from nearby windows now reached the previously dark hallway.

The finished design featured:

• A clean structural post wrapped in painted trim.

• A waterfall wall cap with mitered returns.

• New, level treads and risers with matching nosing.

• Alternating steel balusters and modern handrails.

• Smooth wall terminations with concealed fasteners.

The project demonstrated that careful planning, accurate measurement, and attention to finish details can convert a standard stairwell into a bright architectural element — without major structural reconstruction.

18. Conclusion

Opening a stairwell requires equal parts carpentry skill and design foresight. The process involves understanding structure, improving the base framing, and integrating modern finish details that elevate the entire interior.

Replacing uneven treads, pre-painting risers, constructing a waterfall cap, and installing a clean steel-baluster railing system turned an ordinary staircase into a showpiece.

This remodel shows that thoughtful engineering and craftsmanship can deliver both form and function. Even in older homes with uneven framing, a systematic approach — structure, layout, fit, and finish — can yield professional results that completely change how a space feels.